Colloid Silver & Feminized Seeds
Your wondering how to make colloid silver or how to use colloid silver to make feminized seeds. The proccess is simple but will only work IF you follow the correct steps. Most of the information online is correct to a partial degree. The information is really useless since the key proccess are not disclosed. Most of the information is re-blogged or simple hear-say.
I have spent hundreds of dollars buying colloid silver, some with guarantees with analysis reports on purity. Non of the bought products worked. None of the products even hermaphrodite my plants. Some products simply killed my plants. You must follow the steps very closely to be successful. Do not buy the crap online as it will NOT work. This article will be strictly about making the colloid silver and another article about making cannabis feminized seeds.
To many people are writing about creating feminized seeds when they have no experience. They are simply re-blogging. They do not tell you the missing keys steps. The internet generally gives miss leading information; such as, how to measure strengths and particles sizes. They talk about clarity as purity. This is all wrong and Ill correct all the miss information below as we build our unit as well as, make your colloid silver.
ALL THE TIPS & TRICKS WILL BE REVILED AS WE CONSTRUCT AND PRODUCT, OUR FIRST BATCH. ALL AMBIGUITY WILL BE REMOVED AS YOU READ ON.
- 2X Pure Silver 99.9999% ( 1 OZ Silver Bars, or 14/12 Awg Silver Rods)
- 400-800 mAh charger
- 14awg wire
- Alligator Clips
- Solder + Solder Iron
- Distilled water
- 500ML Mason Jar
- Air Pump, Air Line + Stone
- Steel Wool
- TDS Meter
- Steel Wool
What Not To Use
- Batteries: Even in series do not work and is why people fail. They cannot get their strength high enough before they particles combine and pull away from particle suspension. (More later)
- Tap water: To many contaminants.
- Silver Dollars: This is why people often fail. Percent to low and impure.
The proccess is this: we are trying to pass small current through, pure clean water between two pieces of silver. As a result, mini silver particles are removed from the silver bars/rods and suspended in the water. What you are trying to avoid is having the suspended particles of colloid silver becoming UN-suspended. When this happens the silver is pulled back into a visible, gray solid; therefore, your colloid silver strength weakens. This is something the seed banks will not tell you. Master bloggers who advertise on using batteries are PROOF they have never created proper strengths before, in which, they have never created real feminized seeds.
Building your Colloid Silver Maker
Okay, the proccess is simple and many retro fit creations will work, as long as the principal is the same. You can follow my way as it is full-proof, simple and utilizes material around the house. Follow the images below. I will input valuable information under each step as required. Otherwise email me your question.
Selecting the adapter is very important. Anything will work as long as its between 250mA-800mA. The lower the mA, the longer the charger takes to produce the colloid silver. If you go to large or past 800mA you will make to large of particles. When the colloid silver is to large you will not be able to create the required strength, as well as, hurt your plant.
Leave about 4 feet of wire attached to the adapter. Than strip the ends off leaving approx 1/2 inch of stranded wire exposed. The wire length is only important so you have enough length to reach your jar from the outlet. Simply strip the ends as this will be your first connection to your alligator clips.
The ends of the 14awg copper wire are soldered onto the alligator clips. I simply used a cheap solder iron from Micheal’s craft store. It was a multi purpose iron, heat tip, wood burner and stencil maker. To note: The 14awg wire was selected only because of its stiff but gentle malleability. One end of the wire will be clipped to the adapter and the other end will connect to the silver bar. Please read on about making the connections.
As you can see, you will make your first connection to your alligator clips. Do not worry about polarity as it does not matter in this configuration. What I mean is: there is no reverse polarity; therefore, there is no difference on which adapter wire connects too which black or white wire. View the black and white wire as a colored insulator; inside the insulator is the solid copper wire, this is all that matters. Most information online does not make this distinguish as it is important to know exactly what your doing when playing with water and electricity.
The second connection is completed by using the other end of the 14awg wire VIA alligator clips to the silver bars. See how the stiff wire is malleable therefore easy to hold the silver bars at the correct spacing. I used a simple 2×6 treated board as a mount for the wire. This will hold the wire above the jars. You can configure any retro fit design you want as long as your follow the same principles.
Notice the spacing between the silver bars? You want about 1 inch of space. The bars should be square to each other for best current. Do not submerge the alligator clips in the water! You must only allow the silver bars to touch therefore, some of the bars must remain outside the water. Do not pollute the water with other forms of metal or you will NOT get an accurate reading of colloid silver. This is not commonly noted when creating colloid silver but very important to follow this advice.
Now its time to fill your jar with distilled water. You will fill your jar approx 80% up the silver bar. It does not matter if the jar is 3/4 full or 5/8 full. All that matters is that your silver bars are place within the jar and the distilled water is only touching the bars NOT the alligator clips. At this time, make sure you have some protection under the jar. After several hours the air pump will product a lot of bulbs, spraying everything around the jar. You will damage your furniture with colloid silver and it WILL NOT come off.
To become successful for making the colloid silver you must master these two key components; these are not shared to the general public. You must use an air stone with a timer. The time must be configured correct or your strengths will weaken over time! Read on.
The procedure is the most important informational step to making the proper strength. By now I have mentioned the difficulty to making the correct strength several times. The major issues you will face is once the concentration averages around 20ppm, the solution becomes difficult to keep suspended. Therefor, the colloid silver start to pull away from the particle suspension in the water and starts to become weaker and weaker. This happens by accumulation on as gray smudge on the silver bars. Hence why keep your bars CLEAN and move air bubbles past them.
Allowing the adapter to run longer will only worsen the problem because it will continue to feed the accumulation of non suspended colloid silver. The non suspended colloid silver particles is visible to the eye. This is why we MUST use a air stone at the correct time for short interval’s only. Follow the steps and review the timer spacing. You can make adjustments as per the speed of your concentration. First you need to start your procedure before the the air stone is required
Start the proccess: note the time of day
Make sure your hands are clear of all alligator clips and that no person or child will touch the project. Once you plug your adapter into the wall, it will appear as nothing has happened. The proccess has now started. It may take several hours before your first particles become suspended in the water. The more particles in the water, the faster the proccess builds.
This is why it is slow to get your ppm at the beginning. This is because there is very little to nothing in the water to carry the current between the silver bars. Do not try to add a buffer solution such as H202 or tap water.
Monitor, Test, Monitor
When making colloid silver for feminized seeds the real trick to success is the timer and the air stone. With out this method you will not get the appropriate ppm required for feminized seeds. I will give you a guide line on the timing of your air stone, but depending on your purity and amount of silver being used you will have to modify. Remember you must test often so you know exactly how your ppm is climbing or dropping.
When using a small 500ML jar and 2x 1OZ bars it usually takes approx 8-12 hours to make a 30-45ppm batch. The speed all depends on how often the air stone is active. During the first few hours your ppm may sit at 1ppm. Than it will start to climb faster and faster. The more ppm you have the faster the rate it will climb.
For example, it may take 2 hours to acquire 1pmm but when at 33ppm, it may take 25 minutes to reach 40pmm- that is with out an air stone running. Your goal is to make 40ppm strength. The product can be diluted by simply adding distilled water. More about this on making feminized seeds.
The Timer & Air Stone
After a few hours has passed you will want to test your strength with your TDS meter. The goal is to activate the air stone for about 15 minutes every 45 minutes than reduce to 15 minutes for every 30 minutes. Near the end, you will be timing the air stone at the rate of 15 mins on and 15 mins off. If you do not do this you risk loosing your strength by loosing your particle suspension. When your around 10 ppm start turning on your air stone as indicated above.
If you do not use your air stone your colloid silver will start to get dirty quickly, as a result, you will struggle getting your ppm above 20pmm. When you add air to the solution, it reduces the accumulation of silver on the bars. This allows for your solution to stay clean and clearer. It allows for your solution to build strength, rather than loosing its strength and accumulate on the surface and bars. Higher the ppm, the more darker the solution.
Important Note:Make sure you clean your silver off with a steel wool or cloth. It must be cleaned as soon as accumulation starts. Hence why the air stone helps to reduce the accumulation. If you leave your air stone on with out timed intervoles, it will take days to accumulate the correct strength.
Test your solution every 15 minutes once you reach 35ppm. You can go over, it does not matter. You just do not want to start going backwards. Some sites say you can test with a red dot laser. The theory is the colloid silver will help carry the red dot light thought the distilled water; therefore, you will see a red line. If there was no line than you have only distilled water. Honestly, what is that bullshit measuring tactic? I see some online cannabis bloggers suggesting that as a option.
Understand this: When using your TDS meter, you are not accurately measuring the TDS in the water. But I can tell you, the 40ppm strength accommodates any real accurate lab measurements. Professional seed breeds use this strength and than dilute down to 30ppm once flowering is visible.
Once you are at your required ppm, immediately clean your silver bars. You will need to store your new solution in a class jar, in a dark location at approx 20 degrees. Do not let any sunlight on your colloid silver.
When transferring your solution to your storage container filter your solution first with a coffee filter. This will not effect your over all ppm. Repeat the proccess as it does take approx 1/2 a gallon of spray for 1-2 cannabis plants to make feminized seeds. It does take a lot of solution to make feminized seeds.
You will be successful making colloid silver on your first attempt but you may struggle getting the correct ppm for making feminized seeds. Do not buy colloid silver online, all my purchased did not work. It is to expensive online as you do require approx 1/2 gallon per 1-2 plants. How to make feminized seeds will be on another blog soon to come. There is a few tips and tricks that are not disclosed and I will blog about them later. Sign up to our mailing list so you do not miss the blog on making feminized seeds. Questions or comments can be placed below 🙂
We do sell cannabis & opium seeds. All seeds are renewed each year. Our strain is very unique and is clonable! Both our outdoor strains can be grown ANYWHERE in Canada or any Northern Hemisphere without compromising quality!